Frequently Asked Questions

Concrete is a mixture of cement, sand, stone and water. You may purchase concrete at your local home center or hardware store in pre-mixed bags that only require water. This method is common when small amounts of concrete are needed (around fence posts, cylinder footings for deck posts or small pads). Two cubic-foot concrete mixers work well for pre-mixed concrete where small quantities are being mixed.

For larger concrete pours (less than 5 cubic yards) a six cubic-foot gasoline mixer is usually preferred. In this case you may prefer to purchase the individual ingredients and mix the concrete yourself. Most people mix as follows: one-part cement, two-parts sand and three-parts stone.

Concrete mixers have paddles fixed to a drum and the entire drum rotates allowing the concrete ingredients to mix properly.

When a large amount of concrete is needed its best to call a ready-mix company and have it delivered premixed.

Mortar is the masonry material that is found between brick, block and stone walls. A good mixture for mortar is 1 part Type 1A Portland cement, 1 part Type S hydrated lime, 6 parts masonry sand and water.

Mortar mixers have a “fixed” drum with a series of paddles that rotate inside the drum to create a smooth, thorough mix of all ingredients.

Selecting the correct mixer is important. A concrete mixer will not mix mortar ingredients thorough enough and a mortar mixer will not accommodate mixes that include coarse ingredients such as stone.

Q. Is it necessary to reserve items ahead or do you normally have them in stock?

A. We will always do our best to accommodate customers without reservations, but there is always a chance that the item will be out or reserved to another customer. Therefore, it is best to reserve items in advance.

A reservation:

Allows us discuss with you vehicle and hitch requirements for larger orders.
Locks rental items in for the time you have selected.
Alerts the service department to make sure all items and accessories are serviced and ready to go.
Gives us an opportunity to pull orders prior to you arrival.
Helps us determine labor needs to service you quickly when you arrive.

Q. What happens if I rent an item for a day and I finish with it in a half-day?

A. We know that it is extremely difficult to determine how long it will take to complete your project. Often we will request that you presume the longest time so we do not reserve an item too close to your projected return time. The computer will prorate and only charge you for the time you have the item(s) as long a minimum rental period (as indicated in the Rental Rate Guide) is met.

Q. Do you accept checks?

A. An equipment rental contract is similar to renting a car or renting a room at a hotel. At the opening of the contract there is a refundable deposit, there are often consumables that can be returned for credit and there is a time factor that may or may not be accurate. Therefore, at the opening of the contract we request a credit card for payment. We accept Master Card, Visa, Discover and American Express.

At the end of the contract, when items are returned and we know the exact charge, if you prefer to pay by check, we will gladly refund your credit card amount and take a check for payment.

Q. When using an air-powered floor nailer, what is the correct pressure setting on the compressor?

A. 80psi is a good starting point. Test fire a few nails, then, based on how hard the “sub-floor” is, you may need to increase or decrease the pressure as needed.

Q. I have never used a chain saw. Can you give me instructions so I can safely cut limbs and trees at my home?

A. We carry both electric-powered and gasoline-powered chain saws. They are new and have the latest safety systems built into them, but there is an inherent danger with chainsaws, as you know.

First, consider your job. Are any of the trees or limbs overhanging a building, fence or pool? Are there electric lines nearby?

If any conditions (like the ones listed above) exist on the site where you need to work, it would be better to call a professional to do the work for you. We can recommend several insured professionals that we do business with.

If you are confident that it is a project you can handle, we have both chain saws and limb saws that should fit the bill.

We will spend as much time with you as necessary to select the correct saw and demonstrate the safe operation.

Q. I need to pump out my flooded basement, which type of pump do I need?

A. A lot depends on just how flooded it is. If you were on vacation and your sump pump failed causing you to have several inches of water in your basement I would suggest a 2” submersible pump that will pump up to 4,000 gallons per hour. Once the majority of the water is removed, a wet-dry vacuum, air movers and dehumidifiers are in order.

If you only have a small amount of water, you can get by with a ¾” electric pump that uses a garden hose for discharge. It will pump 1,380 gallons per hour. Again, follow up with a wet-dry vacuum, fans and dehumidifiers.

It would be a good idea to contact your insurance company. Often, homeowners insurance will cover all or part of the cost to rent equipment and replace items damaged by the water.

Q. I am moving to a new home across town. Do you carry dollies and what type do I need?

A. We carry a wide variety of dollies that will help in your move.

The basic “appliance” dolly is a 2-wheeled hand-truck with two straps (one towards the top and one towards the bottom). The straps encircle your appliance (typically a washer, dryer or refrigerator) and ratchet tight. Once attached, the dolly can be tipped back towards the operator and the item can be rolled out of the building.

3-Way convertible dollies work similar to the appliance dolly’s but they do not have the straps. The main advantage is they have two sets of casters so the dolly can lay flat. The best application is for moving boxes.

The piano dolly consists of two separate dollies that slide under a piano. Straps are wrapped around the piano joining one dolly to another. Once the straps are secured, a lever is activated with your foot, raising the piano off the floor 1”. Large, 3” casters then make moving the heaviest loads (up to 1,000 lbs.) easy. Note the same dolly works well for filing cabinets, safes, and entertainment centers and curio cabinets.

Suction cups (the same items used by glass companies) work well for moving appliances or any smooth-surfaced items. Don’t forget moving ramps and moving blankets.

Q. What is the difference between a plate compactor and a “Jumping-Jack” compactor?

A. Plate compactors are used most often to compact soil under sidewalks, pads, garage floors and other large flat surfaces. They will compact material up to 6” thick in one pass. Contractor size plate compactors have a plate size of 20” x 24”. Smaller plate compactors (we refer to them as “patio” plate compactors) can also be used to compact material behind retaining walls, around pools and even on top of pavement bricks. Patio plate compactor plate size is 13” x 21”.

“Jumping Jack” compactors are used in narrow areas such as trenches. They can compact material up to 12"deep in one pass. The “Shoe” size is 11” x 13”.

Q. I need a generator to run power tools at the camp I’m building. What size generator do I need?

A. Generator size is measured in watts. To determine the number of watts needed, remember that starting watts is 3 to 5 times greater than running watts. So, add the amps listed on each tool you’re going to run at the same time, multiply amps x volts x 3. That will equal the wattage needed on the generator.

Example: Circular saw 12.5amps, 3/8” drill motor 3.5 amps, 1hp electric-air compressor 12.3 amps. Total amps needed 28.3 x 110v = 3113 running watts x 3 = 9339 watts. The largest portable generator that we carry is 6200 watts so you would have to run the circular saw at a different time than the air compressor or you run the risk of damaging your tool.

Q. I would like to refinish my hardwood floors but I have heard you can mess them up if you’re not careful. Do they make a floor sander that will not damage your floor?

Drum and edge sanders The drum sander and edger combination is the most often used by professionals because of their power and speed. If you have a floor that is uneven, or has multiple layers of finish or paint on it I would recommend a drum sander. True, if not used properly, you can damage your floor. However, we will spend as much time as needed to explain the proper use of the tool and provide you with an instructional DVD.

EZ Sander The EZ Sand or U-Sand models are the next option. These sanders feature multiple random-orbital sanding discs to sand the floor. The advantage is that it sands the floor quickly, you do not need an edger (as it gets very close to the base-boards), and you do not have to sand with the grain of the wood so it works well for parquet floors. They are not as aggressive as a drum sander but work well for floors that are in good shape and do not have multiple layers of finish to remove.

Square-buff sander The final option is called a “square-buff” which is a large (12” x 18”) random-orbital pad that works similar to a palm sander, only bigger. This sander is a good choice for soft woods (like a redwood porch floor) or floors that were just installed and have no finish on them where you just want to smooth the floor out for a good finish. It is the least aggressive sander and would be a poor choice for removing any finish.

Q. I am installing a hardwood floor in my living room that measures 18’ x 20’. How many nails will I need with the hardwood floor nailer?

A. A box of 1,000 nails will cover approximately 200sf of flooring based on standard
2 1/4” flooring nailed 10” to 12” on center. 18 x 20 = 360sf. You would need 2 boxes of nails.

Q. I am replacing the shingles on my roof. How many nails do I need?

A. Use this simple formula. Four nails to 1 shingle, 1 coil (120 nails) to 1 bundle, 3 coils to 1 square.

Q. I need to dig a trench to the new shed that I built to run an electric line. Do you carry trenchers?

A. We carry walk-behind Ditch Witch Trenchers. They will trench from 1” to 24” deep and approximately 3 ½” wide. Normally, electric code calls for wires to be buried 18” deep and you can either use direct burial wire or insert the wire in conduit.

Trenchers are approximately 10’ long from the front of the digging chain to the rear handles. They weigh about 850 lbs. The easiest way to transport them is on a small trailer (like a snowmobile trailer). If you have a hitch but no trailer, we have trailers available to rent. Deliveries are available if needed.

Don’t forget to contact Dig Safely before you dig (811) 962-7962. They will come out to your property and mark main utility lines (phone, gas, electric) saving you $$ and possible injury.

You will need to locate sprinkler lines, cable TV and other underground wires or pipes.

Q. I would like to rent a small tractor to move dirt around my yard. Will you rent to a homeowner?

A. Yes, we rent tractors and backhoes to homeowners all the time. When you call (or come in) be sure to give us as much information as possible about the conditions where you’re working and what you’re trying to accomplish. That way we can help you select the correct machine for the job.

We have trailers available for rent with the machine if you would like to tow it home, or you can get a quote on delivery.

Q. I am installing a deck. Do you rent posthole diggers?

A. We have several sizes and types of post hole diggers. If you are installing a deck, most towns require a 8” diameter and will need to go down 4’ deep (below frost). If you are using a cardboard tube you will need to go to the next larger auger to give you enough room to insert the tube and plumb it up. For example: if you use an 8” tube you would need a 10” auger. Most often customers use a two-man post hole digger. If you do not have two men, you can accomplish the same job with a hydraulic post hole digger.

In Colonie we have sandy soil which is easy to dig through. If you are in the hill-towns or in an area that may contain rock, hardpan or shale, you might have to go to a machine powered auger that can apply “down-pressure”. The Dingo loader with an auger attachment is the correct machine for those conditions.

Don’t forget to contact Dig Safely before you dig (811) 962-7962. They will come on your property and mark out any underground utilities saving you $$ and possible injury.

Q. I have thirty guests coming for the holidays. What do you have in the way of tables and chairs?

A. We have a complete inventory of banquet tables, chairs and even linens, glassware and place-settings available.

You will need to consider your room to determine which table(s) or combination of tables will work best in your home.

Typical tables that we rent are 6’ and 8’ banquet tables (6’ can accommodate 3 people on each side and one at each end, 8’ can accommodate 4 people on each side and 1 at each end).
We also have 4’ and 5’ round tables. Four-foot tables will accommodate 6 people; Five-foot rounds will accommodate 8 people.

The next thing to consider is transportation. If you would like to pick the items up yourself, 6’ banquet and 4’ rounds fit in a mini-van or SUV (with the center and rear seats removed or folded down). If you need the 8’ banquet or 5’ rounds, a pickup truck will work best. Remember that we also provide delivery service, call for rates.

Q. Our basement flooded a few days ago and we are trying to use our dehumidifier to remove the moisture from the air but it keeps freezing up. Will a commercial dehumidifier work where ours won’t?

A. A household dehumidifier relies on a fan blowing your moist air over cool coils to create condensation. The droplets that collect on the coil run down to a tube which gravity feeds into a drain or a collection tank that needs to be emptied. If the air is too cold in the room the dehumidifier is the coils will frost-up and the dehumidifier will not work. If that happens, you need to heat the room up until its warm enough for the dehumidifier to work.

A commercial dehumidifier has a much larger capacity and assuming there is high enough humidity, it will remove up to 14 gallons in a 24-hour time period. Commercial units have coils that get much colder than household models so they freeze up more quickly. Once the coils have collected frost on them, hot gas is passed through the coils melting the frost. The water then runs off the coils and is collected in a “sump” area. Once the sump is full enough, a built-in pump automatically sends collected water through a hose to a sink, toilet or drain. There are no tanks to empty everything is automatic.

Q. I want to pressure wash our deck and siding. Do you carry pressure washers and are they easy to use?

A. Pressure washers come in several different sizes and types. For cleaning siding and decks you would use a small unit that delivers around 2,000 to 2,500psi of pressure. Care must be taken not to get a unit that is too large. Units that deliver more than 2,500psi can gouge your wood deck and damage siding.

The washers that we carry for this type of cleaning are quite easy to use. They are equipped with an easy-start 5.5hp Honda engine. Most units come equipped with large wheels so they are easy to move around. They do weigh close to 100# so you may need help getting it out of your car or truck (we will load and unload the unit here).

We will review safe operation of the washer with you but there are some things you should keep in mind.

When washing, keep away from any electric fixtures and lights. Be especially careful around air conditioner units and main electric lines coming into the house.
If you need to use detergents, try to select biodegradable detergents that will not harm lawns or shrubs. If bleach is needed to remove mold or mildew, mix 1 part of bleach to 10 parts of water. Cover grass and landscape plantings or wet the leaves with water before washing and rinse leaves when done.
To prevent streaking, wash siding from the ground up and rinse from the top down.

Q. I am clearing an area in the back of our house. Do you rent brush chippers?

A. We carry a 20hp, hydraulic-feed brush chipper that will chip branches up to 6” in diameter. They require a vehicle with a 2” ball hitch and must be towed. The chute is adjustable so chips can be directed into nearby woods, into a truck or piled in a mound to be used later around landscaping.

Tip: When clearing trees and brush to be chipped, try to stack material with the trucks stacked in the direction where the chipper will be placed. This will save you a great deal of time and aggravation when chipping.

Q. I want to strip the wax off the tile floor in our family room. What do you carry for this project?

A. We have everything needed to refinish a tile floor. First you would mop a liquid floor stripper on the tile. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes or so and scrub the floor with a floor buffer equipped with a stripping pad. The next step is to mop the floor with clear water. It may be advisable to mop it twice so you are sure that all the stripping product and dirt is off the tile. When dry, the floor should look clean but dull. Then apply the floor wax. Allow the wax to dry and apply another coat or two. Your floor will come out looking like a liquid “glass” was applied no buffing is required.
We can supply you with industrial floor stripper, the floor buffer and high-quality floor wax. No additional stops will be necessary.

Q. What is the difference between a lawn aerator and a power rake? Which is best to use?

Core aerator for your lawn A. A “core aerator” has hollow tines that sink into the ground and remove plugs of soil. This process advances root growth and helps nutrients reach grass plants at the root level. The “plugs of soil that are left on the ground dissipate quickly and through chemical break-down turns thatch into compost reducing the need for chemical fertilizer. Note: Some manufacturers make “aerators” that are simply sharp spikes that make holes in the turf. They do not give you the benefits of a “Core Aerator”.

A power rake is designed to rake and lift thatch from the lawn for easy removal. A small amount of thatch is okay, but if you have more than ½” of thatch on the lawn, it is a good idea to remove it.

Unless you have an excess amount of thatch, I would have to say aeration is best for your lawn. Your lawn will respond best if the process is done in either spring or fall and works well in conjunction with over-seeding.

Q. I want to put a small vegetable garden in. Do you rent tillers?

A.We do carry tillers. If you are planning a garden in an area where you have grass or weeds, I would suggest that you consider using a sod cutter first. Tilling grass or weeds into the soil where you are going to have a garden will come back to haunt you. By removing the sod you will save yourself countless hours of weeding.

Q. I have a stump in my front lawn. Do you rent stump grinders?

Handlebar type Stump Grinder A. We carry two types of stump grinders. One is a “Handle-Bar” style grinder. It is the least expensive, the most maneuverable and easiest to transport. I would recommend it to grind one or two stumps up to 12” in diameter (or multiple small stumps). It can be transported in a pickup truck, minivan or SUV.

Hydraulic 35 horse power stump grinder The next is a hydraulic stump grinder that features a 35hp Vanguard engine. It can be used for multiple stumps – any diameter. It drives itself from stump to stump and all controls are hydraulic. You would need to rent an optional trailer unless you have your own that will accommodate 52” wide, 8’-6”long and a weight of 2000#.

Tip: Cutting the tree stump as close as possible to the ground will save time grinding.

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